Anyone can build a bookcase, but the MitrePlan is helpful if you’re unsure.The
first step is to take a good look at your timber to work out where the knots and
gnarls are. Where possible, cut them out or place them where they won’t be seen
(such as the bottom).
When your cutting is complete, sand all the parts ready for assembly. If you
think you might want to disassemble your bookcase in future, you could use
“knock-down” fittings to hold all the parts together. Our bookcase was glued and
screwed together, and the screw heads concealed with wooden “cover buttons”.
Lay your two ends out like an open book to make sure they are marked and drilled
as left and right (they’re not identical, they’re opposites). Then follow the
plan to mark out the screw holes. Monte used a spade bit to “counterbore” for
the cover buttons.
To make sure you don’t drill too deep, mark the depth with a masking tape
“flag”. You’ll know when you’ve drilled deep enough because the flag will sweep
away the wood dust.
The adjustable shelves are held in place by shelf pins.
Monte used a template, made from a masonite off-cut, so that all the pin holes
are in exactly the right place. Monte used a block of wood as a depth stop on
the drill this time.
Then simply glue and screw the bookcase together, being sure to wipe off any
excess PVA glue with a damp cloth.
The back can be fixed with flat-head nails, starting with one side straight,
then square the bookcase using an adjacent side.
Stain the bookcase by applying it in the same direction as the grain to avoid
lap or pause marks across the grain.
Monte’s tip: Watermarks can be avoided by fine-sanding the timber when it’s dry,
and before staining.