Sometimes replacing a section of skirting board can be a tricky business. Kevin
has a few tips to help.
Matching unusual mouldings: This skirting board is not an off-the-shelf item, so
Kevin used a “profile gauge” to make a copy of the shape to take to Mitre 10, a
joinery shop or to use when making your own moulding. Trace the moulding onto
paper or cardboard in case the profile gauge is bumped on the way to the store.
Custom-made mouldings can be expensive because there’s usually a set-up fee of
$90 to $200 plus the cost of timber and machining time. For this short length
Kevin decided to make it himself.
Make your own moulding: Often you can use router cutters that match your old
skirting. Kevin could only use a router for two large trenches (grooves), but
used a saw to make a large curve on the top of the skirting board. To do this,
Kevin made a series of cuts at slightly different depths to remove the bulk of
the waste and give a rough shape, and then he used a plane and sandpaper to
smooth it off.
Cutting to fit: Use a mitre saw to cut the board to length. In this case Kevin
used internal mitre joints to match the existing boards, but scribed joints are
ideal if possible.
Fix to the wall: Once fitted, drive nails through the board to mark the wall,
withdraw the nails, and remove the board. Drill where the nails marked the wall,
and insert plastic “spaghetti” plugs. Re-insert the board, drive the nails back
in and punch. Putty the nail holes, fill any gaps with Selleys No More Gaps, and
prime ready for paint.
Consult your electrician if there’s a power point or switch fixed to the board.